Contents: Removal ↳ Installation ↳
The cylinder head should only be removed when the engine is cold. Do not remove the exhaust and intake manifolds from the head.
A defective cylinder head gasket is determined by one or more of the following signs:
- Loss of power.
- Loss of coolant White exhaust gases when the engine is warm.
- Loss of oil.
- The presence of coolant in the engine oil, the oil level does not decrease. However, it becomes less. Gray color of engine oil, foam emulsion on the oil level indicator, the oil is liquid.
- Engine oil in coolant.
- The coolant is bubbling violently.
- There is no compression in two adjacent cylinders.
Removal
Disconnect the negative (-) battery cable.
Caution: When the battery is disconnected, the contents of electronic memory devices, such as engine fault codes or radio codes, are erased. Before disconnecting, also read the instructions in the chapter "Removal and installation the battery".
Remove the air filter together with the suction hose, see p. 59.
Drain the coolant, see p. 38.
Remove the gas rod.
Loosen the "arrow" clamps and disconnect the coolant hoses from the thermostat housing: to the expansion tank, the connecting hose of the coolant of the cylinder head.
Depending on the engine: disconnect the second heating system hose at the cylinder head, at the intake manifold or at the cover of the automatic fuel mixture enrichment device when starting. Loosen the fastening clamp beforehand.
Disconnect the ventilation system hose at the cylinder head cover.
4-cylinder engine with injection system: disconnect the vacuum hoses from the MAP sensor "A" and the activated carbon container "B". To facilitate subsequent assembly, pre-mark the hoses with adhesive tape.
Carburetor engine: Disconnect the vacuum hose from the control unit.
If available, disconnect the vacuum hoses from the air conditioning compressor and automatic transmission. To facilitate subsequent assembly, mark the hoses with adhesive tape beforehand.
Fuel injection engine: loosen the clamps and disconnect the fuel hoses from the pressure accumulator "A" and the fuel line "B". Before disconnecting, cover the connectors with rags to prevent fuel from splashing. Quickly plug the fuel lines with suitable plugs. To do this, insert, for example, clean bolts with a thread of the appropriate diameter into the hoses. To facilitate subsequent assembly, mark the hoses with adhesive tape in advance.
Caution: Disconnect fuel hoses carefully to relieve pressure in the fuel system.
Carburetor engine: loosen the clamps and disconnect the fuel hoses at the carburetor and at the fuel pump.
Disconnect the plug connectors or unscrew the fastening of all electrical wires going to the engine. To facilitate subsequent assembly, pre-mark the wires with adhesive tape.
- Combination plug connector for fan motor.
- Crankshaft Position/Speed Sensor (CPS) Plug Connector
- Engine with injection system oxygen sensor plug connector
- Fuel injection engine: Engine management system wiring harness combined plug connector
- Engine with injection system, combined plug connector of valve injectors
- Carburetor engine: plug connector for automatic fuel mixture enrichment device at start-up
- Carburetor engine, intake manifold heater element plug connector
- Carburetor Engine: Carburetor Stepper Motor Combination Plug Connector
- High voltage wire, terminal 4 at the ignition coil.
Raise the car onto the trestles.
If equipped, remove the lower engine compartment cover.
Loosen the fastening of the front exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold, see p. 80.
Lower the car.
Remove the timing belt, see p. 13.
Remove the spark plug caps and unscrew the distributor cap fastener.
Remove the spark plugs.
Remove the cylinder head cover mounting bolts.
Engine ONS: loosen all cylinder head mounting bolts in reverse order of numbering, i.e. from 10 to 1, first by 1/2 turn, then unscrew the bolts completely.
Caution: Loosening the bolts in the wrong sequence may result in warping or cracking of the cylinder head.
Check that all hoses and wires running from the cylinder head to the engine and body are disconnected.
With the help of an assistant, remove the cylinder head from the engine.
Caution: Do not place the removed cylinder head directly on the sealing surface, as the fully open valves may be damaged. Place the cylinder head on 2 wooden blocks
Installation
Clean the sealing surface of the crankcase from seal residues using a suitable scraper. Do not scratch the sealing surfaces under any circumstances. Make sure that dirt does not get into the cylinder block openings. Cover the openings with rags.
Check the cylinder head for cracks and the working surfaces of the cylinders for scratches.
Check the cylinder head bolt holes for oil or other fluid. If compressed air is not available to blow out the holes, use a small screwdriver to blow clean air into the holes to soak up the fluid.
Note: Liquid from the holes must be removed in any case.
The cylinder head gasket must be replaced.
To center the cylinder head, make your own guide pins. To do this, saw off the heads of two old cylinder head mounting bolts and cut a slot in each rod for a screwdriver.
Screw the guide pins into holes 7 and 9 (see Figure L21-54).
Place the new cylinder head gasket without sealant on the guide pins so that it does not cover any holes.
Install the cylinder head.
Use a screwdriver to unscrew the guide pins.
New mounting bolts can be easily lubricated in the area of their heads and threads and tightened by hand until they stop.
Caution: The cylinder head mounting bolts must be replaced.
Tighten the cylinder head mounting bolts in 3 stages.
In each step, the bolts are tightened in sequence from 1 to 10.
- Method 1: using a torque wrench with a torque of 40 Nm.
- Method 2: using a torque wrench with a torque of 75 Nm.
- Step 3: After a 5-minute pause, use a locked torque wrench to tighten the screw further by 90°.
Attention: Cylinder head mounting bolts are not tightened after a certain mileage. Tighten very carefully. Before tightening, the torque wrench must be checked for accuracy. To facilitate tightening operations to a certain angle, a special protractor is required, for example, HAZET 6690. If a special protractor is not available, place the torque wrench on the bolt so that its handle is located along the cylinder head, mark a 90° angle using a regular protractor and make a corresponding mark on the cylinder head with chalk.
Fit the cylinder head cover with a new sealing gasket. Tighten the cover mounting bolts in 4 steps using a torque wrench to the specified torque value.
- Step 1: bolts 1 through 6 with a torque of 6 Nm.
- Method 2: bolts 9 and 10 with a torque of 2 Nm.
- Method 3: bolts 7 and 8 with a torque of 6 Nm.
- Step 4: bolts 9 and 10 with a torque of 6 Nm.
Screw in the spark plugs and tighten them to a torque of 20 Nm.
Tighten the distributor cap and install the spark plug tips in accordance with the cylinder firing order (1-3-4-2).
Raise the car onto jack stands.
Install the front exhaust pipe, see p. 80.
If equipped, install the lower engine compartment cover.
Lower the car.
Connect and secure the vacuum hoses and electrical wires in accordance with the markings made before removal.
Install the gas rod.
Connect and secure the coolant hoses with clamps.
Connect the fuel supply and return hoses in accordance with the markings made before removal and secure them with clamps.
Connect the engine crankcase ventilation hose to the cylinder head.
Install the air filter together with the suction hose, see p. 59.
Check the engine oil level and top up if necessary. If the cylinder head gasket is damaged, replace the engine oil and oil filter, as the engine oil may contain coolant.
Check the concentration of antifreeze in the coolant and add coolant, see p. 38.
Connect the battery ground (-) cable.
If available, set the clock and enter the radio theft protection code.
Check and, if necessary, adjust the ignition timing angle, see p. 50.
Check and, if necessary, adjust the engine crankshaft speed at idle see p. 64.
Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature, check the levels of working fluids and check the connection points of all hoses for leaks.
The original source of the publication is on the website (www.FordBook.ru)