Notes
- When you remove the wire from the battery, the memory of the electronic storage devices is erased, so remember the code of the radio.
- Open the expansion tank cap only when the engine is cold.
- Disconnect the battery when working.
- Cable bundles must be cut and replaced with new ones during installation.
- First loosen the nuts securing the right wheel (it will need to be removed later).
Engines produced before May 1998.
To remove the cylinder head, perform the following operations:
- remove the battery;
- place the front of the car on supports and unscrew the mudguard shield (nine screws);
Fig. 52. Fastening the radiator grille
- unscrew the trim at the bottom of the radiator (Fig. 52);
- drain the liquid from the cooling system after unscrewing the drain plug in the radiator (see the corresponding subsection);
- unscrew the right front wheel and remove the trim on the inside of the wheel arch (two screws);
- remove the poly V-belt;
- on a 1.6- or 1.8-liter engine, remove the catalytic converter from the arched supports. To do this, loosen the clamp and unscrew the arch;
- Disconnect the engine wiring harness and the brake booster bleed line from the intake manifold pipe. The wiring is secured with a quick-release fastener. Push it aside and remove the wiring. Remove the hose from the intake manifold;
- remove the plug connector from the oil pressure switch;
Fig. 53. Fastening the engine support: 1, 2 — screws
- on a vehicle with a manual transmission, loosen screws 1 and 2 by two turns (Fig. 53);
- on a car with an automatic transmission, loosen the middle screw of the right anti-rotation stop by two turns. Do the same on the anti-rotation stop on the vibration damper and on the support;
- On all vehicles, release the left strut from turning, but do not remove it;
Fig. 22. Fastening of air intake pipes: 1 — fastening bolts, 2 — plug, 3 — plug block, 4 — clamp, 5 — low-pressure hose
- remove the intake manifold completely. First remove the three screws 1 (see Fig. 22). Then disconnect the connector block 3 from the sensor and remove the hose clamps 4 on the same side. Disconnect the multi-pin connector block of the intake air sensor at the location marked "2". On the left side is the low pressure hose 5. Remove it;
- remove the air filter. To do this, disconnect the ventilation hose between the filter and the cylinder head cover. Unhook the rubber ring on the right, remove the air filter from the mount and take it out;
Fig. 54. Removing the throttle cable
- remove the throttle cable safety clip, disengage the throttle cable from the lever at the end and carefully pull the cable back (Fig. 54);
- disconnect the low pressure hoses from the intake manifold pipe;
- remove the wire plug from the cylinder head wire harness and separate the wire harness from the intake manifold;
- disconnect the various low pressure hoses, marking them with a felt-tip pen on the end of the hose and on the connecting part;
- remove the plug connector from the ignition coil (on the left side) and remove the anti-jamming plug on the right side. Above the ignition coil plug connector, disconnect another plug for the coolant temperature sensor;
Fig. 55. Location of connections: 1 - membrane switch for power steering; 2 - ground wire in the engine eye; 3 - High pressure hose of the power steering gear
- disconnect the plug of the membrane switch 1 (Fig. 55) of the power steering gear, the ground wire 2 from the engine eye and the high-pressure hose 3 of the auxiliary power steering pump;
- on a 2-liter engine, unscrew the support bracket for the air conditioning wiring. Remove the heat shield. Release the coolant wiring from the holders, unscrew the two screws and disconnect the coolant hose mount, remove the dipstick and unscrew both lower screws;
- on a 1.6- or 1.8-liter engine, remove the heat shield. To do this, unscrew the two screws at the top and two screws at the bottom. Then remove the dipstick;
Fig. 56. Elements of the exhaust gas recirculation (AGR) system: 1 — EGR system valve on the intake manifold; 2 - EGR system wiring in the engine eye; 3 - EGR system wiring on the ignition coil
- remove the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system from the cylinder head. To do this, disconnect the AGR valve 1 (Fig. 56) from the intake manifold, AGR wiring 2 from the engine eye and AGR wiring 3 from the ignition coil;
- On a vehicle with a 2-liter engine, disconnect the catalytic converter and the Pulse-Air system wiring from the exhaust manifold (three union nuts and four nuts);
- on a car with a 1.6- or 1.8-liter engine, unscrew the catalytic converter from the exhaust manifold (four nuts);
- Disconnect all coolant hoses from the thermostat housing. On a 1.6- or 1.8-liter engine, disconnect the remote temperature sensor connector;
Fig. 57. Position of some multi-contact plug connectors and the Pulse-Air system filter: 1 — coolant temperature sensor plug; 2 — crankshaft position sensor plug; 3 — mounting screw
- remove the Pulse-Air system filter and disconnect nearby plugs 1 and 2 (Fig. 57);
- place a car jack under the oil pan (with a wooden spacer between the jack head and the engine/drive) and lift the unit in the suspensions until tension is achieved;
Fig. 32. Right engine mount mounting locations
- unscrew the right engine mount. Fig. 32 shows how the mount bracket is secured. Always replace the self-locking nuts with new ones. Then remove the bracket;
- on a vehicle with a manual transmission, remove the anti-rotation stop on the left side. The power unit must be lifted to remove the stop;
- unscrew the auxiliary steering pump console screws and remove the console;
- remove the generator suspension brackets;
Fig. 58. Disabling quick-acting locks
- relieve the pressure in the fuel system (see subsection "Fuel injection system"). Then disconnect the fuel lines. They are secured with quick-release fasteners, which are removed as shown in Fig. 58 (the connections are compressed and disconnected);
Warning: If the fuel is under pressure, gasoline may leak.
- having removed the drive belt tension roller, unscrew the middle and upper protective covers of the toothed drive belt;
- remove the wire tips from the spark plugs. Mark the tips;
- unscrew the cylinder head cover (ten screws) and remove the seal;
- remove the spark plugs;
Fig. 59. Releasing the tension of the toothed drive belt: 1 - nut; 2 - tension roller
- loosen the toothed drive belt by unscrewing nut 1 (Fig. 59) and installing a suitable Allen key. Turn the belt tensioner in the direction of the arrow and tighten the tension roller in the new position. Remove the toothed drive belt - do not contaminate with oil or break the toothed drive belt, which will be reused;
Fig. 45. Tool for holding camshaft gears
- Loosen the screws securing both camshaft pulleys, holding them from turning. The clamp shown in Fig. 45 is best suited for this purpose. Otherwise, insert a drift into one of the holes and carefully lock it against the cylinder head. Remove both pulleys, marking their belonging;
Fig. 46. Sequence of loosening the camshaft bearing caps
- remove the camshafts. To avoid deformation of the shafts, loosen the bearing caps in a certain sequence (see Fig. 46). Accordingly, loosen the bearing cap nuts in the specified sequence by half a turn so that the nuts can be unscrewed by hand. Mark the caps and remove them one by one. Carefully remove both camshafts and remove the radial sealing rings;
- remove the plate tappets one by one and set them aside in the sequence required for installation or mark them;
Fig. 60. Sequence of unscrewing the cylinder head mounting screws. Tighten the screws in the reverse order
- remove the cylinder head assembly. To do this, unscrew the screws in the sequence shown in Fig. 60. After removing the dipstick tube, remove the cylinder head (using a rubber hammer if necessary) and place it on two wooden blocks;
Note: The cylinder head bolts on these engines can only be used twice. Mark them with one or two punch marks. If the bolts already have two punch marks, they have already been used twice.
- if the surface of the cylinder head has been ground, the transitions between its surface and the combustion chambers must be treated with sandpaper to eliminate irregularities, but without rounding them off;
- to install, you need to turn two guide bolts. On one side of the bolt there should be an M10 thread, on the other - a sawn slot for a screwdriver. Screw the bolts into two corners of the cylinder head;
Note: When ordering a cylinder head gasket, be sure to specify the engine displacement, as different sealing gaskets are used.
- two fitted bushings are installed in the cylinder block (between the first and second, and also the third and fourth cylinders). In order to guide the head during its installation, the bushings must be well driven into the block. Since the pistons can hit the valves if the crankshaft (or camshaft) is in an unfavourable position, the crankshaft must be turned so that the piston of the first cylinder is approximately 20 mm below the upper edge of the cylinder bore. The installation procedure is as follows:
- Use a screwdriver to screw in the guide bolts;
- install the cylinder head gasket on the block as described above. Both fitted bushings must pass through the corresponding holes in the sealing gasket;
- carefully put the cylinder head on, or lower it with a hand crane onto the block. Make sure that the fitted bushings enter and tap the head with a rubber hammer;
- Insert new cylinder head mounting screws and tighten them in the reverse order to that shown in Fig. 60. Remember that screws must always be replaced with new ones if they have previously been used more than once (see the previous instruction).
The cylinder head mounting screws, i.e. the threads or rods, must not be lubricated. Tighten the screws with the appropriate key in three stages:
- tighten all screws in turn to a torque of 25 Nm;
- tighten the screws in the same sequence to a torque of 45 Nm;
- from this position, tighten the screws by 105°. A graduated disk is usually used for this. If you do not have such a disk, you can easily estimate the rotation by 105°, if you take into account that 90° represents a quarter of a full turn;
Warning: Tighten the cylinder head mounting bolts when the engine is cold.
- install the dipstick tube and the dipstick itself;
- install the camshafts. They are marked. The intake valve shaft has an additional cam at the end for the camshaft position sensor. To seal the front camshaft bearing caps in connection with the cylinder head, some sealant is required;
Fig. 61. Sealing areas
- on the cylinder head, lubricate with sealant the places shown by the arrows in Fig. 61;
- lubricate the main journals of the camshafts well with oil and install the shafts in their places;
Fig. 62. Marking of camshaft covers
- install the camshaft bearing caps in numerical order. The marking is not quite standard as the first cap is marked "0" and is located on the exhaust side. The subsequent numbering is shown in Fig. 62. All numbers must be visible from the outside;
- screw in all the cover screws and tighten by hand. Then tighten each corresponding pair of screws in the reverse order to that shown in Fig. 46 by half a turn, so that all the covers are on top of the cylinder head. And again in the same order, tighten the screws pair by pair to a torque of 10 N·m. Tighten the screws again to a torque of 19 N·m. The bearing covers must always remain parallel to the surface of the cylinder head when tightened;
- hammer in or, better yet, pull on new seals using a piece of pipe with the diameter of the sealing rings. Screw an M10 screw with a large washer to the pipe to tighten the shaft seal. Lubricate the working lips of the seal well;
- fit the camshaft pulleys. The pulleys should rotate freely on the shafts;
Fig. 63. Gauge for adjusting valve timing
- install the valve timing adjustment gauge as shown in Fig. 63;
Fig. 64. Setting the crankshaft to top dead center (TDC)
- turn the crankshaft so that the cutout in the pulley is in the position shown in Fig. 64. This position corresponds to TDC of the first cylinder;
Fig. 65. Preliminary installation of the belt tensioner: 1 - support bolt; 2 - spring; 3 - screw
- if spring 2 (Fig. 65) of the belt tensioner has been removed, it must be installed again.
To do this, screw in the safety pin and tighten it to 10 Nm, hang the spring between the pin and the belt tensioner. Insert an Allen key bent at an angle as shown in the figure and turn. Tighten the tension roller with screw 3 in the new position;
Fig. 66. Placement of the toothed drive belt: 1 - belt, 2 - screw
- Place the toothed drive belt in a counterclockwise direction on the three pulleys and the belt tensioner. First place the belt on the crankshaft pulley, keeping the teeth engaged, place it on the left around the lower guide roller and the toothed drive belt tensioner and pass the loop around the left camshaft pulley. Now, keeping the belt firmly engaged with the teeth of the camshaft pulley, place it on the right pulley and finally pass it around the inside of the right running roller. Make sure that all the teeth provide the required engagement. Loosen nut 2 (Fig. 66), after which the belt tensioner will rush inward to provide the required belt tension;
- lock the camshaft pulleys from turning and tighten both screws to a torque of 68 Nm. The crankshaft should not turn. After tightening the screws, turn the crankshaft two turns until it is again at TDC;
- tighten the belt tensioner screw to a torque of 38 Nm;
- check that the gauge is still aligned according to Fig. 63 when the crankshaft is set to TDC. If not, loosen the corresponding camshaft pulley and move it slightly. Retighten the screw to 68 Nm;
- install the cylinder head cover on a new sealing gasket. Tighten the screws evenly around the circumference, first to 2 Nm, then to 7 Nm;
- screw in the spark plugs (15 Nm) and put the high-voltage wires on them according to the firing order of the cylinders;
- install the protective shields. Make sure that the middle cover is correctly positioned in the lower cover;
- install the drive belt pulley and tighten to 48 Nm;
- carry out all other work in the reverse order, taking into account the following tightening torques, N·m:
- generator console 47
- auxiliary pump console
- steering 47
- front engine mount 83
- elements of the recirculation system
- exhaust gases 10
- heat shield 10
Engines produced since May 1998.
Remove the head in the following order:
- place the front of the car on supports and unscrew the protective shield underneath it (nine screws). Unscrew the protective cover above the crankshaft pulley (two screws), if installed;
Fig. 67. Disconnecting the coolant hose
- drain the liquid from the cooling system by disconnecting the lower coolant hose at the location shown in Fig. 67. The coolant should be collected in a container;
- remove the right front wheel and the trim on the inside of the wheel arch (two screws);
- remove the poly V-belt (see separate description);
- unscrew the screw in the middle of the crankshaft pulley and remove the belt pulley (torsional vibration damper). If necessary, press with two levers to mount the tires;
- unscrew the lower protective cover of the toothed drive belt. A screw will be visible to the left and right of the hole;
- find the plug connector of the crankshaft position sensor and disconnect it;
- Disconnect the brake booster low pressure line from the intake manifold. The wiring is secured with a quick-release fastener. Press on one side and pull the wiring out;
- remove the plugs from the oil pressure switch. One plug is placed on the knock sensor, which is mounted next to the oil pressure switch (if installed);
- lower the car onto its wheels;
- remove the intake manifold. First remove the three screws 1 (see Fig. 22) of the fastening. Remove the plug 3 from the sensor and on the same side remove the clamp 4 of the hose. In place 2 remove the multi-pin plug of the intake air sensor. On the left side there is a low pressure hose 5. Remove it;
- remove the air filter. To do this, disconnect the ventilation hose between the filter and the cylinder head cover. Unhook the rubber ring on the right, remove the air filter from the mount and take it out;
- remove the throttle cable safety clip, disengage the throttle cable from the lever at the end and carefully lay the entire cable back (see Fig. 54);
- release the pressure in the fuel system (see subsection "Fuel injection system"). After this, disconnect the fuel lines. They are secured with quick-release fasteners, which are removed as shown in Fig. 58 (the connection is compressed and disconnected);
Warning: Fuel may leak if under pressure.
Fig. 68. Low pressure pipe and multi-pin plug connector
- remove the plug shown in Fig. 68 and disconnect the low pressure line to the left of it;
- remove all low pressure hoses of the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system (if equipped);
- Disconnect all coolant hoses from the thermostat housing;
Fig. 69. Ignition coil (left) and interference suppression capacitor (right) connectors
- remove the plugs from the ignition coil (left arrow, Fig. 69) and the interference suppression capacitor (right arrow). Remove the plug from the temperature sensor of the remote thermometer;
- unscrew the heat shield;
- disconnect the connecting pipe on one of the coolant hoses;
- unscrew the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold (four nuts) and disconnect the pipe;
- remove the dipstick guide tube and unscrew the auxiliary power steering pump wiring clamp;
- remove the expansion tank of the cooling system and put it aside. Disconnect the fastening of the wiring of the working fluid of the steering system. To do this, unscrew the nuts and mounting pins, unscrew the screws at the top and put the fastening with the pump aside;
- remove the generator and unscrew the upper screw of the generator console;
- place a car jack under the oil pan (with a wooden spacer between the jack head and the oil pan) and lift the power unit until the front engine mount is unloaded;
Fig. 70. Front engine mount mounting locations
- mark the installation position of the engine mount and unscrew the screws shown in Fig. 70. Remove the mount support;
- unscrew the upper protective cover of the toothed drive belt (two screws on the left and right), but do not remove the cover;
- remove the middle toothed belt cover together with the engine mount support. Now remove the upper shield;
- remove the high-voltage wires from the spark plugs one by one (pull the tips upwards) and unscrew the ten screws securing the cylinder head cover, remove the gasket;
- remove the spark plugs;
- make sure that the piston is at TDC (see Fig. 64);
Fig. 71. Loosening the toothed drive belt: 1, 2 — screws
- loosen the toothed drive belt by unscrewing nut 1 (Fig. 71) and inserting a suitable Allen key in the position shown in the figure. Turn the belt tensioner in the direction of the arrow. Loosen screw 2 by four turns and remove the belt tensioner. Remove the toothed drive belt - do not contaminate with oil or break the toothed drive belt that is intended to be reused;
- Loosen the screws securing both camshaft pulleys, holding them from turning. The clamp shown in Fig. 45 is best suited for this purpose. Otherwise, insert a drift into one of the holes and carefully lock it against the cylinder head. Remove the pulleys, marking their belonging;
- remove the plate tappets one by one and set them aside in the sequence required for installation or mark them;
- remove the cylinder head assembly. To do this, unscrew the screws in the sequence shown in Fig. 60, using a wrench with a replaceable head, so as not to damage the screw heads;
- remove the cylinder head (if necessary, using a rubber hammer) and place it on two wooden blocks. The work can be made easier if you have a lifting mechanism at your disposal. In this case, secure the cable or chain in the eyes, lower the head.
Note: The cylinder head bolts on these engines can only be used twice. Mark them with one or two punch marks. If the bolts already have two punch marks, they have already been used twice.
- two guide bolts must be turned for installation. The bolts must have an M10 thread 90 mm long on one side and a sawn slot for a screwdriver on the other side. Screw the bolts into two corners of the cylinder head.
- when ordering a cylinder head gasket, be sure to specify the engine capacity, as different sealing gaskets are used. Two fitted bushings are installed in the cylinder block (between the first and second cylinders, and the third and fourth cylinders) to guide the head during installation, the bushings must be well driven into the block. Since the pistons can hit the valves if the crankshaft (or camshaft) is in an unfavorable position, the crankshaft must be turned so that the piston of the first cylinder is approximately 20 mm below the upper edge of the cylinder bore.
The order of installation of the cylinder head is as follows:
- Use a screwdriver to screw in the guide bolts;
- install the cylinder head gasket on the block as described above. Both bushings must pass through the corresponding holes in the sealing gasket;
- carefully place the cylinder head or lower it with a lifting mechanism onto the block. Make sure that the fitted bushings enter, tap the head with a rubber hammer;
- Insert new cylinder head mounting screws and tighten them in the reverse order to that shown in Fig. 60. Remember that screws should always be replaced with new ones if they have already been used more than once. Cylinder head mounting screws - the threads or rods must not be lubricated. Tightening the screws is carried out with the appropriate key in three stages:
- tighten all screws in turn to a torque of 15 Nm;
- tighten all screws in the same sequence to a torque of 40 Nm;
- from this position, tighten the screws by 90° (a quarter turn). No further tightening is required;
Warning: The cylinder head mounting bolts are tightened on a cold engine.
- install the camshafts. They are marked. The intake valve shaft has an additional cam at the end for the camshaft position sensor. Sealant is required to seal the connection of the front camshaft bearing caps to the cylinder head;
- lubricate the places shown by arrows in Fig. 61 on the cylinder head with sealant;
- lubricate the main journals of the camshafts well with oil and install the shafts in their original places;
- install the camshaft bearing caps according to their numbers. The marking is not quite usual, as the first cap is marked "0" and is located on the exhaust side. Subsequent numbering is carried out as shown in Fig. 62. All numbers must be visible from the outside;
Fig. 71a. Sequence of loosening the camshaft bearing caps
- screw in all cover screws and tighten by hand. Then tighten each corresponding pair of screws by half a turn in the reverse order to that shown in Fig. 71a. Again, tighten the screws pair by pair in the same order to a torque of 10 N·m. Tighten all screws again to a torque of 19 N·m. The bearing caps must always remain parallel to the cylinder head surface when tightened;
- hammer in or, better yet, pull on new seals using a piece of pipe the same diameter as the sealing rings. Screw an M10 screw with a large washer onto the pipe to tighten the shaft seal. Lubricate the sealing lips well with oil;
- fit the camshaft pulleys. The pulleys should rotate freely on the shafts;
- install the valve timing adjustment gauge as shown in Fig. 63;
- turn the crankshaft so that the cutout in the pulley is in the position shown in Fig. 64. This position corresponds to TDC of the first cylinder;
- install and tension the toothed drive belt as described in the relevant subsection. It should be noted that the design of the toothed belt drive has been changed since approximately February 1999. In the old design, a guide roller is used for the toothed drive belt at the bottom;
- lock the camshaft pulleys from turning and tighten both screws to a torque of 68 Nm. The crankshaft should not turn;
- remove the inserted tools and turn the crankshaft two revolutions until it is again at TDC. Check the valve timing adjustment again, as described when replacing the toothed drive belt. If everything is OK, i.e. the gauge is still level, as shown in Fig. 63, with the crankshaft position corresponding to TDC, remove the tools. Otherwise, release the corresponding camshaft pulley and move it a little. Tighten the screw again with a torque of 68 Nm;
- install the cylinder head cover with a new sealing gasket. Tighten the screws evenly around the circumference, first to 2 Nm, then to 7 Nm;
- screw in the spark plugs (15 Nm) and put on the high-voltage wires according to the firing order of the cylinders;
- Install the upper toothed belt cover approximately and install the middle cover with the engine mount support. Tighten the screws to 50 Nm. After this, you can attach the upper cover (10 Nm);
- install the front engine mount and tighten to 83 Nm. Then lower the engine again and remove the jack;
- install the poly V-belt as described below;
- perform all other work in reverse order, taking into account the following tightening torques in N·m:
- generator 25
- lower protective cover of the toothed belt 10
- crankshaft belt pulley 115