Fig. 84. Measuring the diameter of the main bearing journals
The crankshaft main bearings are ground to the nominal size or are 0.25 mm smaller than the nominal size. To ensure that the correct bearing shells are installed in the engine, the crankcase bore and the diameters of each crankshaft main journal must be measured. Make sure that the micrometer cheeks do not overlap the lubrication channels. Each main journal is measured as shown in Fig. 84, once in the direction indicated and again after moving the micrometer cheeks a quarter of a turn.
Definition of backlash
When installing new bearing shells, it is important to determine the clearance of the corresponding bearing. To do this, use the Perfect Circle "Plastigage" rod.
When checking the play, do the following:
Fig. 85. Measuring the clearance of the crankshaft main bearing: 1 — original strip; 2 - strip after tightening; 3 — caliber
- place a piece of rod 1 (Fig. 85) across the width of the bearing on a clean and dry main journal, then install the main bearing shell or, respectively, the connecting rod bearing shell with the cover on top. Tighten the cover screws to the required torque;
- the bearing clearances cannot be measured simultaneously, but only sequentially, bearing by bearing. During the measurement, the shaft must not be rotated or the bearing caps must not be hit to seat them tightly;
- depending on the amount of play in the bearing, the plastic rod will flatten. Unscrew the bearing cap. The widely flattened plastic rod 2 will stick either to the main journal or to the bearing shell. Measure the width of the flat plastic rod with the 3 gauge supplied in the Plastigage kit and consider the smallest gap in the bearing to be the one located at the widest point of the strip;
- If one end of the flattened Plastigage rod is wider than the other, there is a difference in the bearing clearance. This indicates the taper. To measure the deviation from the round shape, the plastic rod is applied along the entire length of the lower bearing shell (transversely). After tightening to the required torque, the flattened wire is measured. The difference between the largest value and the smallest determines the deviation from the round shape.
Note: The connecting rod bearing clearance value was changed on some engines produced since May 1998.
For relevant data, see the appendix.
Installing the crankshaft
The crankshaft is installed in the following order:
Fig. 86. Location of four oil jets on the inside of the cylinder block
- replace the piston cooling oil jets with new ones if they were removed. They are located in the places shown in Fig. 86 and are tightened to a torque of 10 N·m;
- wipe dry the back sides of the bearing shells and insert them into the hole so that the projections of the shells fit into the recesses of the holes. If the same shells are reused, they must be inserted into the corresponding holes. The thrust half rings are located in bearing No.3 and serve to compensate for axial play;
- carefully place the crankshaft;
Fig. 87. Numbering of crankshaft main bearing caps
- insert the liners into the main bearing caps (again pay attention to the projections) and screw the caps in accordance with the markings on the crankcase. The caps are numbered from 1 to 5 (Fig. 87). Cap No.1 is located at the front (camshaft side). The bearing caps are fastened with screws and studs. The studs refer to bearings 2 and 4;
- tighten the bearing cap screws/nuts evenly, starting from the middle towards both outer sides, in several stages to a final torque of 80 N·m if the engine was manufactured before May 1998. Then tighten the screws to a torque of 83 N·m. Turn the crankshaft several times to detect any seizures;
- measure the crankshaft axial clearance as described in Section 2.8.4;
- Press the gearbox input shaft centering bearings into the rear end of the crankshaft;
- install pistons and connecting rods as described in subsection 2.6.4;
- screw in the oil pressure switch;
Fig. 88. Installation of the oil pump: 1 - standard distance, 2 - screws
- install the oil pump. Screw in the screws by hand and align the oil pump so that its body is 0.3-0.8 mm below the surface of the cylinder block (Fig. 88). The figure shows an engine manufactured before May 1998. Then measure as shown in Fig. 89. Insert the feeler gauge and tighten the screws by hand. They are tightened after the lower part of the crankcase has been aligned.
Fig. 89. Measuring the distance between the pump and the cylinder block
- on engines manufactured before May 1998, attach the oil pump. The following work must be carried out within 20 minutes until the sealant dries. Lubricate the joints between the oil pump and the cylinder block and the rear flange and the cylinder block with sealant;
- install a new radial seal ring in the oil pump housing. Either hammer the seal in or use a piece of pipe (which is mounted on the seal ring along the outside diameter) with a large washer and press the seal ring using a pulley screw into the housing until the outside surface is flush.
On engines produced since May 1998.
On these engines, align the bottom of the crankcase:
- lubricate the joint surfaces between the cylinder block and the oil pump (sealing ring flange) with sealant and install the crankcase with a new sealing gasket. Tighten the screws by hand;
Fig. 90. Alignment of the oil pump on engines produced after May 1998.
- install a steel ruler as shown in Fig. 90 and align both parts of the cylinder block exactly flush. The offset in the places shown by the arrows may be (with a manual gearbox installed) no more than 0.10 mm for the protrusion and up to the gap of 0.25 mm. If an automatic gearbox is installed, the lower part should not protrude forward (completely flush) and the gap should not exceed 0.25 mm. Deviations in the gap are compensated by placing spacers, which are installed in the places shown in Fig. 91. In this case, if the gap is 0.26–0.50 mm, insert spacers with a thickness of 0.25 mm; if the gap is 0.51–0.75 mm, insert spacers with a thickness of 0.50 mm;
Fig. 91. Places for installing spacers
Note: Since January 1999, only round spacers (upper arrows) are used.
- install the lower part of the crankcase with a new sealing gasket, check the alignment again in the manner described and tighten the screws (four on one side and four on the other) to a torque of 30 Nm.
On all engines
Install the oil suction pipe with a new sealing gasket. Tighten the suction pipe nuts to 10 N·m and the oil deflector nuts (before May 1998) to 19 N·m;
- install the water pump with a new seal and tighten the four screws to 18 Nm;
Fig. 92. Installing the flange of the rear radial crankshaft seal ring cover: 1 — size; 2 - screws; 3 - nut
- install the cover flange on the back of the cylinder block without the radial sealing ring, as it must first be centered. Install the flange with a new sealing gasket approximately on its seat and tighten the screws by hand. Move the flange so that the upper edge is at a distance of 0.3–0.8 mm below the surface of the cylinder head (Fig. 92), and tighten the screws 2 evenly around the circumference to a torque of 16 N·m. Tighten the nuts 3 of the crankshaft position sensor to a torque of 21 N·m;
- install the radial sealing ring into the cover flange and onto the crankshaft. Lubricate the working edge of the sealing ring with oil and insert the ring by hand into the cover hole. A plate is used for filling, which is fixed to the crankshaft flange with two screws. In the process of uniformly tightening the screws, the radial sealing ring is filled until the plate touches the crankshaft;
- Install the oil pan as described in the section "Engine Lubrication System". Note the difference between engines produced before and after May 1998.;
- install the flywheel in a well-cleaned crankshaft flange. The screws should always be replaced with new ones (coated with sealant). The markings on the crankshaft and flywheel flange should be visible;
- insert a screwdriver into the teeth of the ring gear to prevent the crankshaft from turning. If the oil pan is installed after the flywheel is installed, you can also insert a wooden block between the crankshaft and the crankcase to prevent the shaft from turning. Ask an assistant to support the engine and tighten the screws evenly around the circumference to a torque of 112 N·m (all engines). The drive pulley of the automatic transmission is installed in the same way;
Note: If old thread protector remains in the threaded holes, remove before installing the flywheel or drive pulley.
- install the clutch as in the relevant section. Tighten the screws to a torque of 30 Nm;
Fig. 93. Installing the crankshaft drive gear
- install the thrust washer on the front end of the crankshaft and fit the pinion gear with the inscription "Front" pointing outwards. After installation, the pinion gear should be in the position shown in Fig. 93. Turn the crankshaft so that the piston of the first cylinder is set approximately 20 mm below TDC;
- install the cylinder head, camshafts and toothed drive belt as described in subsection 2.5;
- Install the timing belt covers. Tighten the screws of the lower and middle cover to 7 Nm. Tighten both vertically inserted screws of the upper cover to 4 Nm;
- screw in the spark plugs;
- secure the water pump pulley (10 Nm), put on the crankshaft belt pulley and secure it with a screw (115 Nm). In this case, the crankshaft must be locked against turning;
- install the fan (10 Nm) and secure the ventilation wiring (23 Nm);
- install the thermostat housing with a new sealing gasket and tighten the three screws to a torque of 21 N·m. Also secure the ignition coil holder with three screws to the same torque. Put the high-voltage wires on the spark plugs in the correct sequence;
- lubricate the rubber sealing ring of the oil filter with engine oil and screw the filter in until the sealing ring fits tightly. From this position, tighten by hand another three-quarters of a turn;
- screw in and tighten the drain plug with a new sealing ring;
- install the exhaust manifold with a new sealing gasket and tighten the nine nuts evenly in several steps to a torque of 16 N·m;
- install the dipstick tube. Install the intake manifold. The air bleed hose can be directly connected to the manifold pipe;
- install the remaining parts and units removed from the engine in the order opposite to disassembly. Fill the engine with oil.
Checking the axial clearance (play) of the crankshaft
The axial clearance of the crankshaft must be checked before removing the shaft and during its assembly. The axial clearance of the shaft is determined on the flanges of the bearing shells of the middle bearing. If it exceeds the maximum permissible, replace the thrust half rings.
Perform the check in the following order:
Fig. 94. Checking the axial play of the crankshaft
- install the engine as shown in Fig. 94;
- Mount the dial indicator on the flywheel side of the block. Position the dial indicator against the crankshaft flange or against the flywheel if fitted;
- place a screwdriver on the middle bearing and push the crankshaft in any direction;
- set the dial indicator to zero and release the crankshaft. The value shown will be the axial clearance. To replace the bearing shells, you need to disassemble the crankshaft again.
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