Sand the damaged area with sandpaper (grit 80 or 100). If there is rust, sand that area down to metal. Then apply a rust converter and let it work for an hour.
Clean and degrease this area with lacquer thinner and let it dry.
Mix putty and hardener. The putty mass equalizes differences in height in relation to adjacent surfaces. Be careful: deuhcomponent putty, depending on the temperature, is processed in just a few minutes. So cook only small amounts. With minor irregularities, it is better to spray the putty from a spray can.
To do this, evenly and smoothly apply the putty mass in several thin layers. After about an hour, the layer will harden.
Carefully remove the unevenness with sanding paper dry (grit 180). For fine sanding, use wet sanding paper (grit 400). Pressing lightly, sand the surface with plenty of water.
If scratches still remain, level them again with spray putty, allow to harden and sand with sanding paper wet (grit 600).
Rinse sanding dust thoroughly with water before applying varnish.
Professional lacquer application - possible with some dexterity
Cover the carefully prepared damaged area with waterproof varnish adhesive tape, film or old newspapers. Avoid using cheap duct tape, it gets wet quickly and leaks even paint. Be careful: poisonous fumes are formed when working with varnish. Therefore, take care of good ventilation of the workplace.
Spray Reactive Primer (filler) as a base for a top coat. Work carefully - the unevenness and flow of varnish do not disappear, but increase as the varnish is applied. Let the filler dry, sand with sanding paper wet (grit 600). Rinse sanding dust off with water
Evenly and smoothly apply several coats of top coat from the sprayer. The distance from the spray head to the surface of the varnish should be approximately 20-30 cm. Before applying the varnish, slightly heat the spray jar in hot water. The paint particles then exit the sprayer at a higher pressure. Advantage. the surface is smoother, and the varnish lays down more evenly.
Peel off the edges of the adhesive tape at the repair area, fold it over and spray the area. Thanks to this, the transition to the old varnish will be smooth and polish better.
When the polish is completely dry (in summer about two days, in winter after five days), treat the repaired surface with polish, transitions with a varnish cleaner. You will achieve the best results if you then polish the entire car.
Special waste - old paints, empty aerosol cans, dirty rags and brushes!
Residues of paints and solvents are not considered household waste and must be handed over as special waste. This also applies to dirty rags, brushes and aerosol cans. Mobile reception centers now exist in many cities and districts. Check with your environmental authority for the date of receipt of the waste or the opening time of the waste storage area.
If you are varnishing with a spray can: cut a hole in a large piece of paper to match the size of the damaged area. Then the jet from the sprayer will cover only the intended surface.
If there is still a little top coat, then scratches and scars can be removed with a sanding polish or lacquer cleaner. Use only high quality material from the related products store.
Wrap the block with sanding paper and sand the damaged area with even strokes in one direction. Constantly dip the block into water so that sanding dust is washed out of the sanding paper.
If you are working with a spatula for the first time, then you must first practice before you get down to business. Practice on an old body piece. You will gain the necessary flair and confidence in handling this material.
Hold the spray gun over the varnish surface as calmly as possible. Move the spray gun along the object to be varnished. Don't stop and don't go back down the oval. Because of this, streaks of varnish may occur.
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