WARNING: Be careful when changing a flat tire. It may have been punctured by thieves in order to steal valuables from the car while you are busy changing it.
1. Open the trunk (it contains everything you need to change the wheel) and remove the trunk floor mat (or lift its rear part).
2. Unscrew and remove the spare wheel retainer.
3. Remove the spare tire from the trunk and place it next to the tire being replaced.
4. Use the pointed end of the lug wrench handle to pry up the edge of the decorative cap…
5. …and remove the cap, overcoming the force of its retaining spring.
6. Engage first gear and apply the parking brake. Place a jack under the vehicle next to the wheel to be replaced (see "Using the Jack").
HELPFUL TIP: To avoid getting dirty when changing a wheel, wear gloves and protective clothing if your vehicle has them.
7. On the opposite side, the car must be secured by placing wheel chocks under the front and rear wheels so that the raised car cannot move forward or backward.
8. Using a jack, raise the car slightly, but so that the wheel that needs replacing does not come off the road. Using a wheel brace, loosen the five wheel nuts.
USEFUL TIP: To make it easier to loosen the wheel nuts, you can use your foot instead of your hands, stepping on the handle of the wheel wrench from above.
USEFUL TIP: To make it easier to unscrew the nuts, we recommend purchasing a special wheel wrench with a telescopic handle. It is also convenient to work with a cross-shaped wheel wrench.
9. Jack up the car so that the wheel is off the road, then completely loosen the nuts and remove the wheel.
WARNING: Try to keep the vehicle suspended with the wheel removed for as little time as possible.
WARNING: Only jack up the vehicle to the height necessary to remove and install the wheel.
WARNING: If you are working on soft ground, place a thick board under the base of the jack. Do not use bricks for this purpose: they easily split and the car may fall off the jack, seriously injuring you.
10. Install the spare wheel in place of the removed one, screw the mounting nuts until they stop, but do not tighten them.
WARNING: When tightening the nuts, make sure that their conical parts are aligned with the conical surfaces of the holes in the wheel rim, otherwise the nuts will loosen while driving and the wheel may be lost.
11. Lower the vehicle and tighten the nuts completely. Tighten the wheel nuts every other one around the circumference. To avoid damaging the wheel rim, do not try to "tighten" the wheel nuts by pressing the handle of the wrench with your foot.
USEFUL TIP: To get a feel for the required tightening force for the wheel nuts (tightening torque 130 Nm), use a torque wrench at first.
USEFUL TIP: Do not lubricate the mounting nuts - this may cause them to loosen while the vehicle is moving.
12. Install the decorative cap.
13. Before continuing driving, be sure to check the air pressure in the tire of the installed wheel.
HELPFUL TIP: The car has tubeless tires. If you do not have enough tire mounting skills, we advise you not to try to do this job yourself. One sidewall damage and you will have to buy a new tire or install a tube.
USEFUL TIP: In a desperate situation, you can use a special first aid kit for repairing tubeless tires without dismounting or tire sealant. They must be used in accordance with the attached instructions.
USEFUL TIP: Why is a tubeless tire better than a tubed tire? Firstly, a tubeless tire deflates very slowly when punctured: you can drive for weeks with a nail in the wheel, pumping it up, until you have an opportunity to repair it. Secondly, when, after a very significant mileage, wires of the metal cord start to stick out of the tubeless tire, it can still be used as a spare wheel. There is no point in inserting a tube into such a tire: it will puncture the first time you inflate it.