Elimination of large scratches

1. If there are deep scratches on the bumper, fenders or doors, it is better to dismantle these body parts before repair. The result will be better if this work is done manually.
2. Sand the damaged areas with sanding paper (grit 80 or 100). In the presence of rust, grind until bare metal appears. Then apply a rust converter and let it work for about an hour.
3. First, clean the area with lacquer thinner, degrease and ventilate well.
4. Mix putty and hardener. Align the putty mass to the height of the bounding surface of the defect.
   
   

   Attention: the two-component putty retains its effect for several minutes, depending on the temperature. Therefore, make a mixture of small volumes of both components.

5. Apply putty evenly and successively in several thin layers. After about an hour, the putty will harden.
6. Remove irregularities with dry sanding paper (grit 180). Finish sanding with wet sanding paper (grit 400). When sanding the surface, use plenty of water and apply force.
7. Align the remaining grooves now with putty. Once it hardens, sand all areas with wet sanding paper (grit 600).
8. Thoroughly wash off all sanding dust with water before painting.
9. Thoroughly prepared areas of damage must now be pasted over on all sides with adhesive tape, film or old newspapers. Ignore the unconditionally cheap adhesive tape, it quickly soaks and is then absorbed by the primer.

   Attention: well ventilate your workplace - during varnishing, a lot of harmful fumes are released.

10. Inject primer (filler) as a base for top coat. Work cleanly - bumps and varnish protrusions do not disappear after applying the paint layer, but only increase. Let primer dry, then sand with wet sanding paper (grit 600). Rinse off any remaining sanding with water.
11. Apply topcoat evenly from an aerosol can and continuously in several thin coats. The distance from the spray nozzle to the surface to be painted should be approximately 20-30 centimeters. Before painting, warm the can slightly in hot water. Remove paint residues then with high pressure. Benefit: The surface is smoother and the paint layer is more even.
12. Release the edges of the adhesive tape, fold over and spray these places. The transitions to the existing varnish should be less sharp and easier to polish.
13. Once the repair varnish is completely dry (in summer for about 2 days, in winter after five days), treat these places with polish and the transition points with a varnish cleaner. The best results are achieved if the entire vehicle is polished at the end.

When varnishing with an aerosol can, cut a hole in a large sheet of paper to match the size of the damage. A jet of varnish will cover the surface only in the specified dimensions.

Scratches and scars should be removed with a sanding polish or lacquer cleaner if there is still a trace of the top coat. Use only high quality working material purchased from spare parts stores.

Wrap the sanding paper around the sanding block being used, sand the damaged area smoothly with uniform circular motions in one direction. Moisten the pad constantly with water to wash off sanding dust.

If you are working with putty for the first time, you should practice a little before starting work. Practice on an old car part. This will give you the necessary confidence and reliability when working with this material.

Hold the spray can over the surface to be painted, as still as possible. Guide the jet over the object to be painted, without stopping or in oval movements - this reduces the degree of paint streaks.

Special trash - old paint, empty aerosol cans, dirty rags and brushes