Contents: Removal ↳ Installation ↳
Warning: Gasoline is highly flammable. Use extreme caution when working around the fuel system. Work in a well-ventilated area - open all windows and doors to create an exhaust hood. Do not smoke or allow naked flames or unshielded incandescent lamps near the work area. Please note that fuel used in household appliances (heaters, boilers, dehumidifiers) is also dangerous. Keep this in mind when working near such equipment. Always have a fire extinguisher suitable for extinguishing burning petroleum products near the work area, and read the instructions for its use before starting work. Protect your eyes (goggles, shield, etc.) when working around the fuel system, and if fuel gets on your skin, wash it off immediately with soap and water. Please note that fuel vapors are just as dangerous as liquid fuel.
Removal
1. Place the vehicle on a firm, level surface. Apply the parking brake and loosen the right front wheel nuts.
2. Relieve pressure in the fuel system (Chapter 4).
3. Disconnect the negative battery cable (Chapter 5, paragraph 1).
4. By disconnecting the two electrical connectors and disconnecting the vacuum hose (if equipped), remove the air cleaner cover assembly together with the air flow meter, the resonator and the pre-chamber (Chapter 4A).
5. Disconnect the accelerator cable from the throttle linkage (Chapter 4A). Also disconnect the cruise control cable (if equipped) (Chapter 12).
6. Disconnect the crankcase ventilation hose from the fitting on the cylinder head cover.
7. Remove the bolts on the top of the exhaust manifold heat shield. Unclip the coolant hose so the shield can be removed. Loosen the nut securing the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) pipe to the manifold. Remove the two screws securing the pipe to the ignition coil bracket. Then remove the nut securing the pipe to the EGR valve (Chapter 6).
8. Remove the two screws securing the wiring trough to the top of the manifold. This is necessary so that it can be moved if necessary to access the manifold bolts. Disconnect the electrical connectors of the camshaft position sensor and the coolant temperature sensor. Then unfasten the wiring from the ignition coil bracket and secure it to the manifold.
9. Remove the three screws securing the wiring tray to the rear of the manifold. Release the wiring retainers, disconnect the large electrical connector (near the fuel pressure regulator) to disconnect the manifold component wiring from the engine wiring harness.
10. Label the vacuum hoses as you remove them, and disconnect them in the following order:
- a) Hose from the rear of the throttle body (the second hose going to the fuel pressure regulator does not need to be removed).
- b) Hose from the fitting on the left end of the manifold.
- c) Brake booster hose (Chapter 9).
- d) Hose from the EGR system valve.
11. Equalize the pressure in the fuel tank by removing the fuel tank cap. Then unstick the fuel supply and drain lines secured to the chassis (Chapter 4). Plug or cover all connection holes.
12. Remove the power steering pressure line mounting bolts. Remove the ground wire bolt from the engine lifting eye/cylinder head rear support plate. Then remove the lifting eye/support plate mounting bolt from the generator support bracket.
13. Remove the six nuts securing the right engine/transmission mount bracket. Then remove the bracket.
14. Remove the generator (Chapter 5).
15. Remove the bolts securing the alternator support bracket to the rear of the cylinder block. Remove this bracket together with the engine lifting eye/rear cylinder head support plate (see Fig. 6.15).

16. Loosen the bolts and nuts securing the manifold to the cylinder head and pull it out (see Fig. 6.16). Be careful not to damage adjacent components, such as the valve and the EGR pipe.

Installation
17. Installation - in the reverse order of removal, taking into account the following:
- a) When removing the remaining used gasket and sealant from the manifold and cylinder head with a scraper and solvent, be careful not to scratch or damage the manifold or head. The cylinder head is made of aluminum alloy, and the manifold is cast from plastic, so it is necessary to use suitable solvents. If the gasket has leaked, check the joint surfaces at a workshop for warping. The surface under the head gasket can be treated if necessary, and the manifold must be replaced if it is warped or cracked. Particularly carefully check the attachment points to the manifold of components such as the idle speed control valve and the EGR system line for warping or cracking.
- b) Provided that the mating surfaces are clean and flat, installing a new gasket will ensure a gas-tight joint. Do not use any silicone-based sealants to seal fuel system components or the intake manifold.
- c) Install a new gasket. Then install the manifold on the cylinder head. Install the nuts and bolts (see Fig. 6.17, a).
- d) Tighten the nuts/bolts to the specified torque (in three or four stages - see Technical Requirements). Tighten them sequentially from the center to the edges to prevent the manifold from warping.
- d) Install the remaining components in the reverse order of removal. Tighten all fasteners to the specified torque.
- e) When rebuilding the right engine/transmission mount, replace the self-locking nuts and do not allow the mount to rock when tightening the middle two of the six bracket mounting nuts.
- g) Before starting the engine, check that the accelerator cable is adjusted correctly and the throttle linkage operates smoothly.
- h) When the engine is fully warmed up, inspect it for fuel leaks, as well as for leaks in the intake tract and/or vacuum leaks (see Fig. 6.17, 6). Test drive the car and check that all installed components are working properly.


The original source of the publication is on the website FORDBOOK.ru