Checking and replacing emission control system components (Mondeo 1 and 2)

Positive crankcase ventilation system (PCV)

Examination

1. The procedure for checking the system components is presented in chapter 1.

Replacement of components

Hose connecting the air cleaner to the cylinder head
2. Disconnect the hose from the cylinder head cover and air cleaner. Install a new hose.

Positive crankcase ventilation valve
3. This valve is installed in the separator. Access to the valve (if you have the appropriate tool) is possible immediately after removing the fuel afterburning system unit. Otherwise, follow the instructions in point 4 (see below).

Oil separator
4. Remove the exhaust manifold (chapter 2A or 2B). After this, the positive crankcase ventilation valve can be removed and washed or, if necessary, replaced (see chapter 1).

5. Unscrew the bolts securing the oil separator from the cylinder block and remove it. Remove and discard the gasket.

6. Flush or replace the oil separator (see chapter 1).

7. Install the separator on the new gasket and tighten the fasteners to the required torque.

8. Perform the remaining installation operations in the reverse order of removal. If you disconnected the lower hose from the radiator to remove the exhaust manifold, fill the cooling system with liquid (chapter 1). Start the engine and after it warms up, check for leaks from the exhaust system and the coolant level.

Fuel Evaporative Control System (FECS)

Examination

9. Symptoms such as poor idling and poor performance may occur if the canister purge valve is faulty, the canister is damaged, or the hoses are damaged or improperly connected. Check the fuel filler cap for damage or deformation of the gasket.

10. Fuel leaks or fuel odor may be caused by leaking fuel lines, damaged canister, faulty purge valve, disconnected, improperly routed, kinked or damaged vapor line or control hose.

11. Inspect all hoses connecting to the adsorber for kinks, leaks and cracks along the entire length. Repair or replace if necessary.

12. Inspect the canister. If it is cracked or otherwise damaged, replace it. Inspect the bottom of the canister for fuel leaks. If leaks are found, replace the canister, check the hoses and make sure they are installed correctly.

13. If you suspect the purge valve is faulty, disconnect its electrical connector and its vacuum hose. Connect the battery directly to the valve terminals. When the solenoid is energized, air can pass through it, and when the solenoid is de-energized, air cannot pass through. Another way to check: connect an ohmmeter to the solenoid terminals and compare the readings with the Specifications. If faulty, replace the valve.

14. Subsequent inspection operations must be performed by dealers.

Replacement of components

Carbon adsorber purge valve
15. Disconnect the negative battery cable (section 1, chapter 5A). For better access on 4-cylinder models, you can remove the air intake plenum (section 4). On V6 models, remove the ignition coil (section 5B).



16. Disconnect the valve electrical connector (see Fig. 3.16). Unfasten the valve from the bulkhead, then disconnect its vacuum hoses and remove the valve.



17. Installation - in the reverse order of removal.

Carbon adsorber - Sedan and Hatchback models

Note: Before you begin, make sure you have all the necessary equipment.

18. Remove the fuel tank (chapter 4A).

19. Place the rear of the car on supports. Then support the rear suspension beam with a jack. Remove the wheels and unscrew the bolts of the upper support of each rear suspension strut (two on each support - see Chapter 10).

20. Mark the position of the nut relative to the bottom with white paint (but not with a sharp tool). Unscrew the four mounting bolts (see Fig. 3.20). Lower the beam on the jack by approximately 75 mm and install a reliable support under it.

Note: Do not work under the vehicle if it is supported only by a jack!

21. Unscrew the two mounting bolts of the adsorber unit located at the rear (see Fig. 21).



22. Disconnect the two hoses from the adsorber, taking into account which side they are installed on (see Fig. 3.22).



23. Unscrew the front bolt of the adsorber unit. Remove the adsorber (see Fig. 3.23).



24. Release the pin from the retainer and knock out the pin to separate the adsorber from its bracket (see Fig. 3.24).





25. When installing, secure the canister to the bracket and fix this unit in the car. Securely tighten the bolts, connect two hoses to the corresponding pipes.

26. Position the beam to its installation location and insert the bolts, then tighten them slightly.

27. After this, the beam must be aligned relative to the bottom. Ford recommends the 15-097 device for this. It consists of a pair of conical guides and a unit for fixing this device on the beam during its installation (see Fig. 3.27). However, the working diameters of the guides are 20.4 mm, and the holes for them in the beam and the body have a diameter of 21 mm and 22 mm, respectively. Therefore, during assembly, a significant gap will appear. If you do not have such a device, align the beam by eye, aligning its holes with the holes in the body and focusing on the marks made during removal. To align the beam and the body, you can also use a conical rod, such as, for example, a device for centering clutch discs or a high head for a wrench of the appropriate size.



28. After aligning the beam, tighten the bolts to the required torque (Chapter 10) without disturbing its position (see Fig. 3.28). After tightening the bolts, repeat the alignment check of the beam with the body.





29. Perform the remaining installation operations in the reverse order of removal,

30. Please note that after removing and installing the beam, it is necessary to check and adjust the installation of the wheels and steering angles at the first opportunity. This must be done by specialists.

Carbon adsorber - models Universal
31. Disconnect the negative battery cable (section 1 of chapter 5).

32. Raise the rear of the vehicle and place it on supports.

Note: Do not work under the vehicle if it is supported only by a jack!

33. Disconnect the two hoses from the adsorber, taking into account which side they are installed on.

34. Unscrew the bolt securing the canister unit. Remove the canister by unfastening it from the front support.

35. Remove the plastic cap and knock out the pin to separate the adsorber from its bracket (see Fig. 3.35).



36. When installing, secure the canister to the bracket and fix this unit in the car. Securely tighten the bolts, connect two hoses to the corresponding pipes.

Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) System

Examination

EGR valve
37. Start the engine and let it idle.

38. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the EGR valve and install a hand vacuum pump in its place.

39. Create a vacuum in the EGR valve. The vacuum should be maintained, and the engine operation will become unstable.

• a) If the vacuum does not persist and there is no deterioration in engine performance, replace the valve and repeat the test.
• b) If the vacuum persists but there is no deterioration in engine performance, remove the EGR valve and check it and the intake manifold for blockages. Clean or replace components and repeat the check.

RVG system
40. The following system check operations require special equipment and should be performed by dealers.

Replacement of components

Note: The following components become very hot when the engine is running. Therefore, wait until the engine has cooled down completely before servicing.

EGR valve
41. Disconnect the negative battery cable (section 1 of chapter 5).

42. On 4-cylinder models, remove the air flow meter and resonator (Chapter 4). On V-6 models, remove the idle speed control valve.

43. Disconnect the vacuum hose, unscrew the nut securing the EGR pipeline to the valve. Unscrew the two valve mounting bolts and remove the valve from the intake manifold (see Fig. 3.43, a, b). When removing the valve, be careful not to damage or bend the end of the pipe. Note that the valve gasket must always be replaced after removal.



44. Note that the metal pipe connecting the valve to the manifold is not supplied separately from the manifold. This pipe does not need to be disconnected. However, when removing the manifold, it is always necessary to check the reliability of the fastening of the end connection of the pipe (see Fig. 3.44).





45. Check the valve for sticking and carbon deposits. If these signs are found, clean the valve or replace it.

46. Installation - in the reverse order of removal. Apply anti-seize compound to the threads of the union nut. Install a new gasket and tighten the valve bolts to the required torque (see Fig. 3.46).



EGR Pipeline - 4-Cylinder Engine Models
47. Disconnect the negative battery cable (section 1 of chapter 5).

48. Remove the air flow meter and (where necessary) the resonator (Chapter 4),

49. Unscrew the bolts of the heat-insulating casing of the exhaust manifold and remove both its parts or move them to the side to access the end of the pipeline. Unscrew the union nut securing the pipeline to the exhaust manifold (see Fig. 3.49).



50. Unscrew the two screws securing the pipeline to the ignition coil bracket. Then disconnect the two vacuum hoses. Note that they differ in diameter so as not to mix them up during installation. Unscrew the union nut securing the EGR pipeline to the valve (see Fig. 3.50). Remove the pipeline.



51. Check the condition of both hoses and replace them if necessary (Chapter 1). Note that if backfires are intense due to clogging of the exhaust system, both hoses must be replaced and their connection on the pipeline must be thoroughly flushed.

52. Installation - in the reverse order of removal. Install the hoses on the appropriate pipes. Apply anti-seize compound to the threads of the nuts. Tighten the nuts. Tighten the two screws to the required torque.

RVG pipeline - models with V-shaped 6-cylinder engines
53. Disconnect the idle air control valve pipe from the air cleaner and the upper section of the intake manifold.

54. Unscrew the union nut securing the RVG pipe from the RVG system valve and disconnect the pipe.

55. Support the front wheels with wedges. Raise the rear and place it on supports. Remove the front left wheel and its wheel arch liner.

56. Remove the EGR system pipe from the exhaust manifold and take it out of the vehicle (see Fig. 3.56).



57. Installation - in the reverse order of removal. Apply anti-seize compound to the threads of the nuts at both ends of the pipe.

EGR solenoid valve

Note: It is secured with two mounting screws and is larger at the top than the adjacent EGR solenoid valve. Take this into account when connecting the vacuum hoses.

58. Disconnect the negative battery cable (section 1 of chapter 5).

59. Remove the air flow meter and (where necessary) on 4-cylinder models, the resonator (Chapter 4). For better access, the intake air duct chamber can be removed (see Fig. 3.59).



60. Disconnect the electrical connector of the valve by releasing it from the retainer. Unscrew the two screws and remove the valve from the support bracket located on the bulkhead. Then mark and disconnect the two vacuum hoses.

61. Installation - in the reverse order of removal. Install the hoses in their places.

Exhaust Gas Differential Pressure Sensor

62. This sensor should be checked by dealers.

63. On models with 4-cylinder engines, the resonator can be removed for better access (Chapter 4).

64. Disconnect the electrical connector by releasing it from the retainer. Remove the two screws. Remove the sensor from the bracket mounted on the bulkhead (on models with 4-cylinder engines) or on the left side of the rear cylinder head (on models with V-shaped 6-cylinder engines). Then disconnect the two vacuum hoses. Note that the hoses differ in diameter so as not to mix them up during installation (see Fig. 3.64, a-c).





65. Check the condition of both hoses and replace if necessary (see Chapter 1).

66. Installation - in the reverse order of removal. The hoses must be securely fixed to the pipes.

Fuel afterburning system

Examination

67. A faulty system may cause symptoms such as unreliable idling, stalling, and poor performance.

68. Inspect all hoses/pipes connecting the filter housing and valve for kinks, leaks and cracks along their entire length. Repair or replace if necessary.

69. Inspect the filter housing and pipeline. If cracks or other damage are found, replace the faulty component.

70. If you suspect the "air injection" valve is faulty, disconnect its electrical connector and its vacuum hoses. Connect the battery directly to the terminals of the valve. When the solenoid of the valve is energized, air can pass through it, and when the solenoid is de-energized, air cannot pass through. Another way to check is to connect an ohmmeter to the terminals of the solenoid and compare the readings with Technical requirements. If faulty, replace the valve.

71. Subsequent verification operations must be performed by dealers.

Replacement of components

Air injection solenoid valve"

Note: It is secured with a clip and has a smaller top than the EGR solenoid valve next to it. Keep this in mind when connecting the vacuum hoses.

72. Disconnect the negative battery cable (paragraph 1 of chapter 5A).

73. Remove the air flow meter and resonator (Chapter 4A). For better access, the intake air duct chamber can be removed.

74. Disconnect the electrical connector of the valve, releasing it from the retainer. Using a small screwdriver, release the valve retainer on the bracket located on the bulkhead.



75. Remove the valve. Then mark and disconnect the two vacuum hoses.

76. Installation - in the reverse order of removal. Install the hoses in their places.

Fuel afterburning system filter housing

Note: When the engine is running, the filter housing and surrounding components become very hot. Wait until the engine has cooled down completely before starting work.

77. Raise the front end and place it on supports. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the base of the filter housing (see Fig. 3.77).



78. Disconnect the negative battery cable (paragraph 1 of chapter 5A).

79. Remove the resonator support bracket bolts from the front crossmember of the engine compartment. Loosen the screws of the two clamps securing the resonator to the air flow meter and intake air duct chamber hoses. Then tilt the resonator away from the thermostat housing (Chapter 4A).

80. Unscrew the screws securing the filter housing to the pipeline. Unscrew the mounting bolt. Then remove the housing (see Fig. 3.80).



81. To disassemble the filter housing, unscrew the four screws and separate the upper part from the housing base. Remove the foam filter and wash it with a suitable solvent (see Fig. 3.81, a, b). If any of the housing components are worn or damaged, the entire unit must be replaced.




82. Installation - in the reverse order of removal.

Fuel afterburning system pipeline

Note: When the engine is running, the filter housing and surrounding components become very hot. Wait until the engine has cooled down completely before starting work.

83. Disconnect the negative battery cable (paragraph 1 of chapter 5).

84. Remove the air flow meter and resonator (Chapter 4A).

85. Remove the exhaust manifold heat-insulating casing bolts. Unfasten the coolant hose so that the upper part of the casing can be removed. Lubricate the EGR pipe nut and the afterburner system nuts with penetrating oil.

86. Remove the EGR pipe (see above).

87. Unscrew the screws securing the filter housing to the pipeline (see Fig. 3.87). Unscrew the four nuts securing the pipeline to the exhaust manifold. Remove the pipeline as a unit. Do not damage or bend it (see Fig. 3.87).



88. Thoroughly flush the pipeline, especially its threaded sections, as well as the threads in the manifold. Remove all traces of corrosion.

89. When installing, carefully insert the pipe into the cylinder head ports. Apply anti-seize compound to the threads and tighten the union nuts, holding each pipe in its respective port. Tighten the nuts to the specified torque.

90. Perform the remaining installation operations in the reverse order of removal.

Unit - fuel afterburning system filter housing together with pipeline

Note: When the engine is running, the filter housing and surrounding components become very hot. Wait until the engine has cooled down completely before starting work.

91. Disconnect the negative battery cable (paragraph 1, chapter 5A). Remove the resonator support bracket bolts from the front crossmember of the engine compartment. Loosen the screws of the two clamps securing the resonator to the air flow meter and intake air duct chamber hoses. Then tilt the resonator away from the thermostat housing.

92. Drain the cooling system (chapter 1). Disconnect the coolant hose and coolant pipe/hose from the thermostat housing.

93. Unscrew the bolts of the heat-insulating casing of the exhaust manifold. Lubricate the EGR pipeline nut and the nuts of the fuel afterburning system with penetrating oil.

94. Remove the EGR pipe (see above).

95. Unscrew the filter housing mounting bolt. Unscrew the four nuts securing the pipeline pipes to the exhaust manifold. Remove the unit. Do not damage or bend it (see Fig. 3.95).



96. Thoroughly flush the pipeline, especially its threaded sections, as well as the threads in the manifold. Remove all traces of corrosion.

97. When installing, carefully insert the pipe into the cylinder head ports. Apply anti-seize compound to the threads and tighten the union nuts, holding each pipe in its respective port. Tighten the nuts to the specified torque.

98. Perform the remaining installation operations in the reverse order of removal. Fill the cooling system (Chapter 1). Start the engine and check for leaks from the exhaust system. After warming up the engine to normal operating temperature, check the coolant level.

Catalytic converter

Examination

99. Checking the operation of the catalytic converter requires complex, expensive equipment, and above all, a high-quality exhaust gas analyzer. If the level of carbon monoxide in the exhaust gases is too high, then a complete check of the engine management system must be performed to eliminate all possible faults before recognizing the converter as faulty. The car should be handed over to the dealers for inspection.

Replacement

100. On 4-cylinder engine models, the catalytic converter is part of the exhaust downpipe. On V6 engine models, the converters are part of the exhaust manifolds. Information regarding its removal and installation is provided in chapter 4A.

Oxygen sensor

Examination

101. To check it, you need special diagnostic equipment that is connected to the sensor wiring. Make sure that the voltage changes from low to high when the engine is running. Do not attempt to check any parts without special equipment. Checking should be done by dealers.

Replacement

Note: This sensor is easy to damage. Therefore, it should not be dropped or hit. It will also not work if the power cable is broken or washed with solvent.

102. Disconnect the sensor electrical connector (see Fig. 3.102).



103. Raise the front end and place it on supports. The sensor can then be removed by working underneath the vehicle. On 4-cylinder engine models, unscrew the sensor from the exhaust inlet pipe. On V6 engine models, unscrew the sensors from both exhaust manifolds (see Fig. 3.103). Remove the sealing gasket (if present).



104. When installing, wash the sealing gasket, and replace it if it is worn or damaged. Apply an anti-seize compound to the sensor thread so that it does not stick to the intake pipe. Install the sensor, tighten it to the required torque. For this, you will need a slotted head (see Fig. 3.104). Reconnect the wiring.



For more information, please visit the specified website [FordBook]