
Fig. 8. Double-ended spanner (A) and ring spanner (B)
A complete set of high-quality tools is required for repairs. A good tool can be used for a long time, and it will always justify the cost of purchasing it. The basis of the tool set is a set of open-end wrenches that can be used on any easily accessible part of the car. A set of closed-end wrenches is desirable; it can be used on tightly seated screws and nuts or in hard-to-reach places. To reduce costs, you can get by with a set of combination wrenches; they have an open end on one end and a ring of the same size on the other. Figure 8 shows such wrenches. It is advisable to purchase socket heads (inserts). If the outer diameter of the heads is not too large, they can also be used to unscrew nuts and screws in hard-to-reach places or recesses. In addition, you will need a set of Phillips screwdrivers, pliers, and a hammer.

Fig. 9. Graduated disc (A) and Torx screws (B)

Fig. 10. Round-nose pliers (A) and needle-nose pliers (B)

Fig. 11. Tools and auxiliary means for car maintenance and repair: 1 - hydraulic jack; 2 - oiler; 3 - feeler gauges for checking gaps; 4 - tire profile gauge; 5 - tire pressure gauge; 6 - Electric portable lamp; 7 — control lamp (12 V); 8 - torque wrench; 9 - wire brush; 10 - hacksaw; 11 — piston ring tightener; 12 - tripod supports
In the automotive industry, so-called Torx screws are increasingly used (Fig. 9). A special set of insert heads is used to loosen such screws. In addition to the basic equipment, you can buy an impact screwdriver, without which it is unlikely that you will be able to loosen machine-tightened Phillips-head screws without damaging them. Of course, it can also be used to tighten connections to ensure the tightness of the connections. Round-nose pliers for retaining rings are also often required, since gearbox gears, shafts and similar parts are held in most cases by retaining rings, which are very difficult to remove with a screwdriver. Fig. 10 shows two types of round-nose pliers - for external retaining rings, which can be unclenched with pliers, and for internal retaining rings. They can have straight or beveled teeth. A useful thing is a torque wrench (Fig. 11). If the required tightening torque of a screw or nut has already been reached, it slips. Keys with an indicator that shows the torque achieved are also produced. In this connection, the graduated disk should also be mentioned. It looks like the one shown in the upper part of Fig. 9. Many screws and nuts have to be tightened to a certain angle (angular tightening). For this, it is best to use a graduated disk.
The more complex the design of the car, the more devices and tools are required for its independent maintenance. Some types of work cannot be performed without special, usually expensive, devices and tools.
Fig. 11 shows the most frequently used tools and accessories. We recommend purchasing them if you plan to service your car yourself.
When working on a vehicle, observe the following safety requirements to protect yourself from possible injury:
- do not work under a car raised with a car jack. Always provide additional supports. If there are none, you can place, for example, two wheels on top of each other;
- Never tighten wheels or hub nuts while the vehicle is on stands;
- Never unscrew the coolant expansion tank cap on a hot engine. If this is unavoidable, wrap a thick cloth around the cap and turn it to the first latch to allow steam to escape;
- Never drain the engine oil immediately after the end of the trip. Dispose of engine oil in specially designated places and only in accordance with current regulations;
- Do not allow brake and coolant fluids to come into contact with the car's paintwork. The resulting stains are difficult or impossible to remove;
- Do not inhale brake dust. Even though brake pads and shoes are made without asbestos, the dust from their abrasion is harmful to health. If you blow out the brakes with compressed air, turn away, try not to breathe the dust. Inquire about the possibility of purchasing aerosols that are used to treat brake parts to prevent dust formation;
- immediately wipe off any oil or grease from the floor - slippery floors can be easy to slip on;
- Do not use the wrong size or sharpened wrenches to loosen nuts or screws. A slipped wrench can cause injury. In any case, cover the open wound with a bandage before dirt and oil can penetrate it;
- you can't repair a car wearing a tie or long, flowing clothes. Tie up long hair while working. It's better to take off rings and bracelets - they can catch on something, and what's more, they conduct electricity well;
- clear your work area of any foreign objects to avoid tripping over them;
- It is better to work with an assistant. Family, friends or acquaintances should sometimes check if everything is okay;
- never try to finish the job in a hurry - many nuts will remain loose;
- according to fire safety regulations, never smoke in the immediate vicinity of the vehicle and do not allow others to smoke. Remove the terminals from the battery if the fuel lines are blocked. Short circuits caused by metal objects can lead to sparking. Keep a fire extinguisher ready for any "fire" situation;
- Never place a portable lamp on the engine. Some portable lamps generate a lot of heat and can cause a fire, even though they are protected by a wire grill. It is best to hang it in the engine compartment from the open hood when working.
Warning: Using low-quality tools in most cases leads to injuries and damage to fasteners, etc. High-quality tool equipment is a good start for self-service of the car.
The following tools and aids will make repairs much easier and improve their quality:
- range of screwdrivers with non-slip handles for slotted, Phillips and Torx head screws;
- Spark plug wrench SW 16, special socket wrench with rubber insert;
- Allen keys on a ring measuring 2–8 mm. The edges of these keys wear out quickly. If the key slips off several times without result, buy a new set;
- using a cross-head wheel wrench for passenger cars, you can also loosen tightly seated wheel bolts. In other cases, the wheel wrench from the driver's tool kit should be quite sufficient;
- Pliers, water pump pliers (at least 240mm long) and side cutters bend, hold, turn and separate almost all materials on a vehicle;
- a mechanic's hammer (recommended weight approx. 300 g) is used, for example, to knock a firmly stuck bolt out of a joint with a punch. "Sensitive" structural elements such as bearings, cast or hardened parts, on the contrary, should be processed only with a plastic or rubber hammer. A straightening hammer will help with bodywork;
- a center punch is used for drilling operations on metal. Install the hardened tip exactly in the right place for drilling. A light blow of a hammer on the rod of the center punch makes a small depression on the surface, into which a metal drill is installed;
- a punch (3 and 6 mm in diameter) is universal for assembly and disassembly work on the chassis, engine and brakes. If you remove lock bolts with it, make sure that the surface of the punch is approximately the same size as the bolt, otherwise it will deform.
Warning: When using a punch repeatedly, burrs in the form of fringes are formed from hammer blows. It may happen that a piece of flattened material unexpectedly breaks off and bounces into the eye. Therefore, work only with punches that do not have burrs on the striking side. You can try to grind such a punch slightly so that it looks "safe" again.
- using a chisel (hardened blade), you can, if necessary, deal with deformed or rusted threaded connections by cutting off the nut together with a piece of the threaded bolt. However, on "soft" places, your assistant should support the hammer at the bottom at the point of impact to prevent deformation;
- for work in the engine compartment and under the car, it is recommended to purchase a set of socket wrenches with 10–32 mm inserts and a ratchet wrench. The set is cheaper than buying the necessary inserts separately. This also includes the already mentioned sets of "Torx" inserts;
- for work in the cabin, a set of socket wrenches will not be superfluous. Along with cross, slotted screws, Torx screws and plastic clips, manufacturers use screws with SW6 to 13 mm;
- for working with electronic systems, the following is recommended: pliers and a screwdriver with insulating handles, crimping pliers, plug connections and wire connectors, a phase test lamp with a needle terminal and a separate cable for ground connection.
Note: Check the driver's tool kit. You should have everything you need in case of a breakdown on the road. Does the kit include a car jack, a wheel universal joint, and a screwdriver? If there is a loose connection or a weak wire connection, electrician's pliers, several wires, and electrical tape will help. You should also have a set of lamps and fuses for replacement, a towing rope, a cable for connecting to an auxiliary battery, and a flashlight. And don't forget that unforeseen repairs on the road can make your hands dirty. Take paper towels or handkerchiefs with you on the road (they are also necessary for checking the oil level in the engine, the fluid in the power steering reservoir, etc.).
[The text of the article was copied from the website FORDBOOK]