Good work results can only be achieved with a complete and proper toolkit. Therefore, before starting work, check your equipment: a bad tool that capitulates already before the first rusty screw or immediately begins to bend will create corresponding problems for you and spoil your mood. When buying tools, pay attention to their quality - a good tool has its price and is extremely rarely available as a special offer on the shelves with goods in construction markets and shopping centers. In addition, everything can be found in specialized stores. If you are going to put your own hands to this matter, then it is always enough to have the following basic equipment:
 Screwdriver set with fixed, non-slip handles for slotted, Phillips and Torx screws. |
 Sets of open-end and ring spanners. It is advisable to have double fork-type wrenches with a jaw width of six to 19 millimetres. Open-end/fork-type wrenches with a jaw width of 10, 13, 17 and 19 millimetres should be purchased for inverted screw connections in a double design. |
 Spark plug wrench. Special insert wrench with rubber insert. |
 Allen keys (key for Allen screws) in a set with sizes from 2 to 8 millimeters. |
 Pliers 1, side cutter 2 and water pump pliers 3 (at least 240 mm long). With them you can bend, clamp, rotate and separate almost all materials in your car. |
 A mechanic's hammer 1 (recommended weight approx. 300 g). Together with a punch, it will, for example, allow you to loosen tightly seated bolts. Sensitive parts such as bearings, cast or hardened parts are best handled with a plastic or rubber hammer 2. |
 Using the core 1, the holes for drilling are filled. The punches 2 (diameter 3 and 6 mm) are universally used in work on dismantling and assembling the chassis, engine and brake system. Using the flat chisel 3 (hardened blade), if necessary, it is possible to deal with deformed or heavily rusted screw connections. |
 Work with cable harnesses or electrical equipment requires – as basic equipment – insulated screwdrivers for slotted and cross-head screws 3 (sizes 1, 2, 3), a phase test lamp 4, as well as insulated pliers 1 and crushing clamps 2. |
 Work in the engine compartment, under the car, on the chassis, and on most auxiliary units is most often performed using a 2-way torque wrench (1/2-inch drive mechanism) and the appropriate set of wrenches. Typically, a box with a set of such wrenches 1. (Nozzles 10-32 mm, hinge element, long/short extension, ratchet) is better to buy as a separate set. For work in the salon it is also desirable to have a "box with a set of torque wrenches". In this case, of course, it is enough to have a small ¼-inch drive. In addition to screws with a slot, Phillips slot, torx screws and plastic clamps, the manufacturer mainly uses screws with a width (SW) from 6 to 13 millimeters. |
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