Caution! Do not use tools that may scratch the parts being cleaned.
2. To replace the valve lever stud, unscrew the stud with a gas wrench or with a nut and lock nut. If the stud does not unscrew when applying a torque of no more than 35 Nm, heat the upper part of the rack with a blowtorch and unscrew the stud. Clean and degrease the threads in the cylinder head. The threads of the new studs have an adhesive coating that sticks together already in the process of screwing the stud, so the stud must be screwed in quickly and in one go.
3. Using a ruler, check the flatness of the lower plane of the cylinder head along, across and diagonally. The maximum permissible non-flatness is 0.15 mm, otherwise it is necessary to regrind the head, while the thickness of the removed layer should not exceed 0.3 mm.
4. After processing the head, check the depth of the combustion chambers, which for engines with a working volume of 1.1 dm³ should be 18.22 mm, and for engines with a working volume of 1.6 dm³ – 19.6 mm.
5. Check the condition of the hydraulic valve lifters.
6. Check the condition of the valve guide bushings.
7. Check the condition of the valve seats.
8. Check the condition of the valve drive levers and the surfaces of the levers that are in contact with the ends of the valve stems for wear and the presence of scratches and grooves.
9. Check the condition of the valve springs. The springs must be replaced after 80,000 km of vehicle mileage.
Checking the valve guides, machining the valve seats in the cylinder head and grinding the valves are described in subsection 3.1.2.2.3.
The text is available on the specified website info portal [fordbook]