Rear Hub and Bearing (H-Type Axle) — removal, disassembly and installation (Transit 2)

Please note: Rear hub fixing methods have changed frequently over the course of production. Review all procedures before you begin work and make sure you have all the tools necessary for the job. Use extreme caution when removing and installing hub nuts as they are tightened to extremely high torque (especially on the latest models). In any case, new hub nuts should be used during installation.

Caution: Due to the extremely high tightening torque of the rear hub nut (especially on the latest models) place axle stands under the rear axle in addition to the main supports, and use extreme caution when removing and installing the hub nuts. When working, use only the correct sockets for the type of nuts and ensure you have the correct nut removal tool and a torque wrench capable of tightening them to the correct torque (see Specifications) during installation. Refer this work to a dealer or suitably equipped garage if the procedures are unclear or if the required tools are not available.

Removal

1. Refer to the previous Section and remove the axle shaft on the side you are interested in.

2. After removing the axle shaft, pull out the spacer ring installed between the bearing and the drive axle housing (see Figure 10.2).

Hubs with round nuts

3. Use a screwdriver or a thin chisel to pry the locking tabs pressed into the grooves of the hub nut to release the grooves, but do this carefully so as not to damage the threads. Unscrew the hub nut with a special tool "Ford" No. 15-077 or something similar (see Figure 10.3a). In this case, do not forget that the left nut has a left-hand thread, and the right nut has a right-hand thread. Left-hand threaded nuts can be identified by a marking groove running around the circumference of the nut (see Figure 10.3b). When purchasing a new hub nut for your hub installation, remember that only the latest, serrated type nut is available from Ford warehouses, and only this type of nut should be used.





4. Remove the hub using (if necessary) ford special tool #15-060. A regular hammer will also work if the Ford special tool is unavailable.

Hubs with twelve-sided nuts (models before 1992)

5. A redesigned twelve-point hub nut was introduced in 1989, and rear hub removal and installation procedures were revised accordingly. Note that as on earlier models, the twelve-point nut has left-hand threads on the left side and regular right-hand threads on the right side. Left-hand threaded nuts can be identified by a marking groove running around the circumference of the nut (see Figure 10.5).



6. Using a 3.0mm drill bit, drill a pilot hole into the locking tab pressed between the teeth of the hub nut, and then drill out the pressed edge of the tab using a 6.0mm drill bit.

7. Using an AF 50.0mm socket and a long extension rod, loosen the hub nut.

8. Remove the hub using (if necessary) ford special tool #15-060. A regular hammer will also work if the Ford special tool is unavailable.

Hubs with twelve-sided nuts(models since 1992)

9. In 1992, the twelve-sided nut was further modernized. The modernized type nut is similar in appearance to the previous version (see Figure 10.5). But the removal and installation procedures have changed somewhat. As before, the left nut has left-hand threads, and the right has right-hand threads. Removing and installing the nut requires an AF socket with a 2 1/4-inch diameter.

10. Using the 2 1/4-inch socket and a strong, long extension rod, unscrew the nut with great care.

11. Remove the hub using (if necessary) ford special tool #15-060. A regular sliding hammer will also work if the Ford special tool is unavailable.

Complete disassembly

12. After wiping all components clean, carefully inspect all parts for damage or wear. Check the condition of the bearing by rotating its inner ring and checking for any binding. Also try moving the inner ring from side to side - excessive movement will indicate wear. Any component that cannot be repaired must be replaced with a new one (see figure 10.12, a, b).





13. To disassemble the hub, place it with the front flange (but not with heels) on the supports so as not to damage the sensor's timing ring on vehicles equipped with ABS.

14. Press out the bearing with a suitable punch or drift. Press out or pry out the old oil seal. Clean the hub with a fine file to remove any nicks and burrs resulting from removing the old bearing.

15. When assembling the hub, first lubricate the bearing with grease, then install the hub on the supports so that the front side of the flange faces down.

16. Position the bearing in the hub so that the side that contacts the nut faces up.

17. Press the bearing into the hub using a suitable tubular punch (resting against the outer ring of the bearing) so that the bearing is flush with the hub flange. Never press the punch against the inner bearing ring.

18. Turn the hub over and install it on the blocks with the back side of the flange down so that the studs hang freely. Press the oil seal into place with a suitable punch or drift.

Installation

19. After assembling the hub, lubricate the contact lips of the oil seal with grease. Then carefully place the assembled hub onto the axle. Press the hub into place, using a soft-faced mallet if necessary to tap it in (see Figure 10.19).



20. Screw on the new hub nut, referring to the notes made earlier regarding the identification of left and right hand nuts (see Figure 10.20).



21. Tighten the hub nut to the specified tightening torque according to the nut type (see Figure 10.21).

22. On hubs with a round or twelve-sided nut 50.0 mm AF (all models before 1992) lock the hub nut by pressing or driving the locking tab into the grooves of the nut with a center punch (see Figure 10.22). On later models with 2 1/4-inch hex nuts, the hub nuts are self-locking, and driving in the locking tab is not required.





23. Install the spacer ring in place with the chamfer facing inward.

24. Install the axle shaft as described in previous Section.