2. Remove the cap from the first connecting rod. Remove the old bearing shells and wipe the working surfaces of the connecting rod and cap with a clean, lint-free cloth. They should be free of dirt.
3. Clean the back surface of the upper half of the new bearing, then place it in place in the connecting rod. Make sure that the bearing tongue fits into the groove in the connecting rod. Do not hammer the bearing shell and do not hit or scratch its working surface under any circumstances. Do not lubricate the bearing during assembly.
4. Clean the back surface of the other bearing shell. Install it in the connecting rod cap. Again check the entry of the bearing tongue into the connecting rod groove, do not apply grease. When assembling the bearing with the connecting rod, it is extremely important that their contact surfaces are absolutely clean, including from grease.
5. Place the rings on the piston so that their cuts are at an angle of 120 degrees to each other (see figure), then place a piece of plastic or rubber hose on top of each connecting rod cap bolt.
6. Lubricate the piston and rings with clean engine oil, install the piston in the piston installation tool. Leave the piston skirt protruding from the tool by 6.35 mm (1/4 inch) to guide the piston into the cylinder.
Press the rings until they are flush with the piston.
7. Turn the crankshaft until the journal of the first connecting rod is at BDC (bottom dead center), then generously lubricate the cylinder walls with oil.
8. Turn the notch or arrow on the top of the piston toward the front of the engine (see illustration), then carefully insert the piston with the connecting rod into the bore of the first cylinder and lower the lower edge of the tool onto the engine block. Tap the top of the tool to make sure it contacts the block along its entire circumference.
9. Carefully tap the piston from above with the end of the wooden handle of the hammer (see the picture), place the connecting rod in the socket on the journal of the shaft. When entering the hole, the piston rings can jump out of the device, so try to press the device against the block. Proceed slowly, and if you feel resistance when the piston enters the cylinder, stop immediately.
Caution: Do not, under any circumstances, try to force the piston into the cylinder, otherwise you risk breaking the rings or the piston itself.
10. After installing the piston assembly with the connecting rod, check the oil clearance of the connecting rod bearing, then finally screw the connecting rod cap into place.
11. Cut a piece of plasticizer of the appropriate size, slightly shorter than the width of the connecting rod bearing, and place it on the journal of the first connecting rod parallel to its axis (see figure).
12. Clean the working surface of the connecting rod cap, then remove the protective pieces of hoses from the connecting rod bolts and install the cap. Make sure the mark on the cap is on the same side as the connecting rod mark. Tighten the nuts to the specified torque three times each.
Note: Use a thin-walled socket head to avoid erroneous tightening torque values that may result from the head being pinched between the cover and the nut. Do not move the crankshaft during this operation.
13. Remove the connecting rod cap carefully so as not to damage the plasticizer. Compare the thickness of the smeared layer of plasticizer with the scale printed on the box, find the corresponding value of the oil gap (see the figure). Compare the gap with the permissible specifications. If the gap does not correspond to the required one, this may indicate that the bearing shells are incorrectly selected (in this case, they will have to be replaced). Just in case, it does not hurt to make sure that no dirt or oil got between the shells, caps or connecting rods when measuring. Recheck the journal diameter. If the smeared plasticizer turned out to be wider on one side, this may be due to the conicity of the shaft journal (see section 20).
14. Carefully clean the plasticizer residue from the connecting rod journal and its surface. Do not scratch the bearing under any circumstances - use your fingernail or a wooden chip. Make sure that the bearing surfaces are perfectly clean, then apply the usual thickness of grease such as "moly" or motor oil to both. To install the bearing shell in the connecting rod correctly, you will have to push the piston into the cylinder; don't forget to first put the pieces of hoses on the connecting rod bolts.
15. Lower the connecting rod into its seat on the journal, remove the pieces of hose from the connecting rod cap bolts, install the cap and tighten the nuts to the required torque value in three steps.
16. Repeat the procedure for the remaining piston and connecting rod assemblies. When assembling, keep the backs of the bearing shells and the inner running surfaces of the connecting rods and caps spotlessly clean. Check that the piston is correctly matched to the cylinder and that the pistons are installed so that the notch on them points to the front of the engine.
Remember to lubricate the piston generously with engine oil before installing it in the fixture. When finally installing the connecting rod caps, lubricate the bearings thoroughly.
17. After installing the piston assemblies with the connecting rods as expected, turn the crankshaft several times to detect possible jamming.
18. The final step is to check the axial runout of the connecting rod. This procedure is described in section 13. Compare the measured axial runout value with the one specified in the specification, make sure it is acceptable. It should remain within the permissible limits if it was like that before disassembling the old crankshaft and connecting rods. If new connecting rods or a new crankshaft were installed, the axial clearance may be too small. Then you will have to remove the connecting rods and bring them to the required size.
[The material was copied from an information website FORDBOOK.ru]