SEQUENCE OF WORK
1. For deep scratches on bumpers, fenders, or doors, remove body part before repair. The result of the repair will be better and it will be easier to treat damaged areas.
2. Sand the damaged areas with sanding paper (grit 80 and 100). With rust - to bare metal. Apply a rust converter and leave it on for one hour.
3. Clean and degrease the area with gasoline or thinner and allow to dry.
4. Mix putty and hardener. The putty mass evens out irregularities in the damaged area.
Work with putty quickly as it hardens within minutes. Therefore, for work, prepare small amounts of putty. Treat irregularities with a spray putty.
Pic. 3.17. Using a putty knife to apply putty
5. Apply the putty evenly in several thin layers (pic. 3.17). After about an hour, the layer will harden. If you first took a spatula in your hands, first practice before you take on serious work. On the old body part, apply several layers of putty as a test. This will give you some skill and confidence in dealing with this material.
Pic. 3.18. Grinding the damaged area with sanding paper wrapped around the bar, with uniform movements in one direction. Dip the block in water at all times to remove sanding dust
6. Dry sanding paper (grit 180) eliminate irregularities. wrap sanding paper (grit 400) around the bar, with uniform movements in one direction, sand the damaged area (pic. 3.18). Dip the block in water at all times to remove sanding dust.
Moisten the damaged area with plenty of water and do not apply much force.
7. The remaining irregularities are smoothed out with a spatula, dried and finally sanded with damp sanding paper (grit 600).
8. Thoroughly rinse sanding dust with water before varnishing.
Professional varnishing
Pic. 3.19. Spraying paint through a hole the size of the area to be treated cut into a large piece of paper. A jet of varnish covers only this area
9. Tape the carefully prepared damaged area with waterproof tape, film or old newspapers. You can also cut a hole in a large sheet of paper the size of the area to be treated (pic. 3.19), then you will not paint over the excess. Do not use cheap tape, it peels off quickly and even leaks paint.
When applying varnish, toxic fumes are formed, so take care of good ventilation of the workplace.
10. Apply a primer as a finely porous base for the topcoat (filler), which is sold in aerosol form. Work carefully - the unevenness and streaks of varnish do not disappear when applying subsequent layers of varnish, they only increase. Let the primer dry and sand to a uniform finish with damp sandpaper (grit 600). Rinse off any sanding residue with water.
Pic. 3.20. Spraying varnish from an aerosol can
11. Evenly, in several coats, apply a spray top coat. The distance from the aerosol head to the surface to be varnished should be approximately 20-30 cm. Before applying the varnish, heat the aerosol can in warm water. The paint particles soften under higher pressure, the surface becomes smoother and easier to polish. Hold the spray can over the surface to be varnished as calmly as possible (pic. 3.20). Run the aerosol jet along the object being varnished, do not interrupt the jet and do not drive it ovally - otherwise there will be lacquer streaks.
12. Detach the edges of the adhesive tape around the area to be repaired, fold them back and apply varnish from an aerosol can to these places. The transition to the original paintwork will be imperceptible and will be easier to polish.
13. As soon as the coating on the repaired area is completely dry (in summer after two days, in winter after five), treat the repaired area with polish, and the transitions with a cleaner. You will achieve better results if you finish polishing the entire car.
PRACTICAL ADVICE
Disposal of old paint, empty aerosol cans, dirty rags and brushes
Residues of paint, varnish and solvents, as well as dirty brushes, rags and aerosol cans, must not be disposed of with normal household waste.
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